The Frustrating Cycle of Acne Breakouts
Acne isn’t just a common problem faced by teenagers. For millions of adults, acne continues well beyond adolescence, affecting not just their skin but also their self-confidence and mental well-being. From prescription drugs and harsh topical treatments to lifestyle changes and over-the-counter products, many find themselves stuck in an endless cycle of hit and try.
But what if there was a more precise, science-based approach—something that doesn’t just treat the visible effects of acne but fixes the underlying causes of it?
This is where light therapy, particularly red and blue wavelengths, now offers new hope. Supported by clinical evidence and recommended by dermatologists, red light therapy is increasingly seen as a significant weapon in the fight against acne, provided you understand how to use it properly. [1]
What's Really Causing Your Breakouts?
Before you try any treatment, it’s important to know exactly what’s causing your acne. Nearly all breakouts stem from two main causes:
- Bacterial overgrowth: There is a particular kind of bacteria, Cutibacterium acnes (previously known as Propionibacterium acnes), that lives on your skin and causes acne and it is generally harmless. But when your skin gets clogged with oil (sebum) and dead skin cells, this bacteria becomes trapped and multiplies quickly. That buildup leads to a breakout.
- Inflammation: Your body’s immune system sees this bacterial invasion and triggers an inflammatory response. That’s why pimples appear red, swollen, and painful. In more severe cases, such as cystic acne, this reaction goes deeper and lasts longer.
Many traditional treatments (such as salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide) target one aspect of acne—typically by drying the skin or decreasing oil production. [2]
These approaches can disrupt the skin barrier and cause irritation. However, light treatment provides a noninvasive, biologically tuned solution.
An Introduction to Light Therapy for Skin Health
Light therapy, also known as photobiomodulation, is the use of light, particularly in the red and near-infrared wavelengths, to stimulate healing, relieve pain, and reduce inflammation in the skin. In fact, our skin has photoreceptors that take in these wavelengths, similar to the way plants absorb sunlight for photosynthesis.
Due to this penetrative nature, light therapy can be tailored for several types of acne, from bacteria on the surface to deep inflammatory responses.
Different wavelengths of light penetrate the skin to precise depths and elicit healing reactions:
- Blue light (approximately 415–445nm) is absorbed superficially in the skin and is known to target P. acnes bacteria.
- Red light (approximately 630–670nm) penetrates deeper into the body to impact inflammation and cellular turnover.
- Near-infrared light (about 850nm) penetrates even deeper—reaching into subcutaneous tissues—to assist with more stubborn or internal inflammation.
Red Light: The Ultimate Anti-Inflammatory Healer
Red light, especially in the 630–670nm range, does not directly kill acne-causing bacteria. Instead, it targets what many experts now believe is the more damaging half of the acne cycle: inflammation.
Here are some key tried-and-true benefits of red light therapy based on clinical studies [3].
- Lowering inflammation-producing compounds in the body
- Enhancing the blood circulation and providing more nutrition to the skin
- Activating fibroblasts, cells that aid in collagen production and maintain the skin’s structure
- Accelerating wound healing and tissue regeneration in general
In other words, red light just stimulates the skin’s endogenous defense system and enhances the self-repair process to prevent breakouts from happening again. Many users reported their inflamed pimples appeared noticeably lighter and less painful after consistent red light treatments. With time, this leads to smoother skin texture and a reduction of post-acne scars.
Real-life Case: In research published in the Journal of Dermatology (2015), study subjects who received red light therapy twice a week for 12 weeks saw a decrease in acne-related inflammation and reported their skin tone had improved and that their skin healed faster. [4]
The Power Combo: Why You Need Both Red and Blue Light
Red light is amazing for healing your skin–reducing redness, soothing inflammation, and speeding up healing for existing breakouts. But what about blocking acne before it starts?
Blue light, which is generally in the range of 415–445 nm, works in a different way. It penetrates into your sebaceous glands and goes after the true offenders: The C. acnes bacteria that lurk in your pores. A process called photodynamic oxidation, in which blue light works on compounds known as porphyrins (produced by the bacteria themselves). This reaction produces reactive oxygen species—little bursts of oxygen—that tear apart the bacteria’s cell wall and destroy it.
Blue light is the ‘‘offense’’—it fights and kills the bacteria. Red light, on the other hand, is the “defense”: It soothes inflammation, reduces redness, and encourages your skin to heal itself. Due to this reason, many dermatologists advise using them in combination, both red and blue light.
Here’s why this combo is important: Most at-home devices emit only one of these lights. Although either just red or just blue can help, the best results generally come from using both, either during the same session or one following the other.
Tackling Deeper Issues Like Cystic and Hormonal Acne
Cystic and hormonal acne aren’t like whiteheads or blackheads, which originate on the surface of the skin: They often originate deeper in the skin, sometimes forming painful, inflamed nodules.
In these cases, near-infrared light (850nm and higher) is particularly helpful. This depth-penetrating wavelength promotes blood flow, reduces deep inflammation, and encourages lymphatic drainage. Although it doesn’t kill bacteria directly,
While it doesn't directly kill bacteria, it can help the skin to recover from the prolonged stress and swelling linked to a cystic lesion.
Research spotlight: One clinical trial reported that combining red with near-infrared light was more effective for cystic acne symptoms than red light alone, because it promoted better tissue healing and deeper anti-inflammatory activity.[5]
How Long Does It Take to See Results?
The most common myth about red light therapy is that it is a quick fix. In real life, its effects are all about persistence and patience.
Most at-home protocols suggest:
- 10–20 minutes per session
- 3–5 sessions per week
- 4–6 weeks to notice visible improvements
Although some users notice decreased redness or pain within the first few days, the most transformative changes—fewer breakouts, improved texture, less scarring—can appear after a few weeks to several months of consistent use.
Pro tip: Stay consistent and take weekly photos in the same lighting to monitor progress. This helps you to notice any small visible changes before and after therapy.
Conclusion: Your Personalized Path to Clearer Skin
Acne is not simply a matter of appearance; it is a complex inflammatory disease that has both microbial and hormonal causes. By selecting the proper wavelengths for light therapy, you can do more than just treat the symptoms of acne by targeting the root cause.
To recap:
Blue light kills acne-causing bacteria, while red light is anti-inflammatory, speeds healing, and helps the skin to repair itself. Those who have more severe, cystic, or hormonal acne can benefit even more from near-infrared light, which reaches deeper into the skin. Instead of using a single wavelength, the best results occur when you use dual wavelengths to treat several acne components at once. Whether you’re new to light therapy or a skin-care enthusiast, the secret is finding the right combination for your specific skin needs— and using it consistently.
References
- Cleveland Clinic. “Red Light Therapy: Benefits, Side Effects & Uses.” Cleveland Clinic, 1 Dec. 2021, my.clevelandclinic.org/health/articles/22114-red-light-therapy.
- Beylot C. Mécanismes et causes de l'acné [Mechanisms and causes of acne]. Rev Prat. 2002;52(8):828-830.
- Wu Y, Deng Y, Huang P. Application of red light therapy for moderate-to-severe acne vulgaris: A systematic review and meta-analysis. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021;20(11):3498-3508. doi:10.1111/jocd.14369
- Pei S, Inamadar AC, Adya KA, Tsoukas MM. Light-based therapies in acne treatment. Indian Dermatol Online J. 2015 May-Jun;6(3):145-57. doi: 10.4103/2229-5178.156379. PMID: 26009707; PMCID: PMC4439741.
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Aziz-Jalali MH, Tabaie SM, Djavid GE. Comparison of Red and Infrared Low-level Laser Therapy in the Treatment of Acne Vulgaris. Indian J Dermatol. 2012;57(2):128-130. doi:10.4103/0019-5154.94283
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